Stretch fabric and method of making the same



June 2, 1964 A. BuRLEsoN 3,135,104

STRETCH FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed April 10, 1961 F/G.1.re

FIG.3. I8 20 g A T ATTORNEYS I FIG-2. BYMQ/MyMWM i l l l United StatesPatent 3,135,104 STRETCH FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME AaronBurleson, Burlington, N.C., assignor to Burlington Industries, Inc.,Greensboro, N.C., a corporation of Delaware Filed Apr. 10, 1961, Ser.No. 101,879 4 Claims. (Cl. 66-469) This invention relates to tubularstretch fabrics, and in particular to stockings or the like knitted innovel manner, whereby they exhibit unusual and outstanding stretchproperties, particularly in the coursewise direction. The invention isadapted for use in nylon stretch stockings, of a support or heavy sporttype, being inherently narrow in the ankle aside from the elfect oftight knitting in this area. The invention relates also to the method ofknitting the fabric.

A principal object of the invention is to provide a novel tubularstretch fabric highly stretchable in the coursewise direction.

Another object is to provide a novel method for knitting tubular stretchfabrics, readily adaptable to standard single or plural feed knittingmachines. Further objects will be in part evident and in part pointedout hereinafter.

The invention and the novel features thereof may best be made clear fromthe following description and the accompanying drawing, in which:

FIGURE 1 represents a womans seamless stretch stocking manufactured inaccordance with the invention;

FIGURE 2 is a diagrammatic view of the outer face of a fragment offabric constructed in accordance with the invention. In this figure, theloops of the yarns are enlarged and separated for the purpose ofillustration, the respective yarns being straightened out, for thepurpose of clarity, as if they had no tendency to draw up or twist, and

FIGURE 3 is a diagram illustrating the knitting of the fabric.

In the drawings, FIGURES l, represents a womans stretch stocking inaccordance with the invention, in flat form, as may be effected byboarding or pulling over a cardboard form. The stocking 10 includes theusual welt 12, leg portion 14, ankle portion 16, heel 18 and toe 20. Thestocking is unusually narrow, particularly in the ankle portion 16, andhighly stretchable in the coursewise direction, as indicated by thedouble headed arrow 22.

The method of knitting the stocking is illustrated in FIGURE 2, wherein24 represents the conventional latch needles of a standard single feedcircular knitting machine. The needles, as will be understood, move fromright to left as shown, in the direction of arrow 26, past the feedstation 28 and then the knitting station. The needles approaching thefeed station 28 are elevated to conventional yarn taking level, but inaccordance with the present invention alternate needles 24', oralternate groups of needles, are elevated to a higher level so that thebottom of each needle 24 latch is higher than the hook of the adjoiningintervening needles 24". The needles 24' attain this higher elevation atthe feed station 28, at which different yarns are fed to the separatedseries of needles.

As shown, feed finger 32 feeds nylon yarn Z to the elevated needles 24'and yarn finger 34 feeds nylon yarn S to the intervening needles 24".The feed fingers 32 and 34 may be linked and/ or actuated together tooperate in unison, or a single feed finger supplying the two yarns atdilferent levels may readily be provided and utilized.

When the needles have taken the respective yarns, the elevated needles24 are drawn down substantially to the level of the intervening needles24", and then all the needles are drawn down in passage past theknitting station to draw sititches. At the knitting station every needleknits, but the yarns are knit alternately. That is, one needle draws aloop in yarn S, across which yarn Z floats, and the next needle draws aloop in yarn Z, across which yarn S floats. As shown, yarn S remains infront of all needles until the stitches are shed, but is not taken bythe alternate needles 24', forming floats thereacross, while yarn Z istaken by the needles 24' and drawn down in back of the needles 24",similarly forming floats across the needles 24-". The resultant fabricexhibits the unique appearance illustrated in FIGURE 3.

The respective yarns, as previously indicated, are oppositely torqued inconventional manner to produce stretch fabric. Yarns may be torqued, forexample, as described in our prior Patent No. 2,771,757, issued November27, 1956. Each yarn may be composed of one, two, three, four or moreends, and the degree of torque and total denier per yarn may vary withinwide limits, to produce fabrics of different weight, appearance,resistance to stretching, etc. The yarns may be differently dyed orcolored, for special effects.

In FIGURE 3, yarn S with S torque is shaded, and yarn Z with Z torque isunshaded, and it will be seen that both yarns extend through eachcourse, although not plied together, the respective yarns being drawninto stitches in alternation. That is, yarn S is floated across eachloop drawn in yarn Z, and then itself drawn into a loop across whichyarn Z floats. As shown, all the floats are on the inside of the fabric.While in this illustration the yarns are drawn into stitches inalternation, that is in accordance with a 1 x 1 sequence, it will beapparent that each yarn may be drawn into two or more successive loops,with the other yarn floated across, the pattern thus being 2 x 2 or 3 x3.

While the method is readily adaptable to standard single feed machines,it may be performed with plural feed machines as well. In utilizing aplural feed machine, the needles may be separated at each feed stationin the manner described above, and oppositely torqued yarns fed to therespective series of needles, whereby multiple courses would be knitduring each revolution of the machine. Alternatively, a two feed machinemay be utilized in distinctive manner, by elevating alternate needles atone station and feeding a torque yarn thereto, and elevating theintervening needles at the other station and feeding a yarn of oppositetorque to the intervening needles. By thus knitting on alternate needlesat one station and on the intervening needles at the other the samefabric is produced, although only one course may be knit for eachrevolution of the machine.

Tubular stretch stockings commonly exhibit their stretch characteristicprimarily in direction longitudinal of the fabric, that is at rightangles to the courses. Fabric in accordance with this invention,distinctively, exhibits more stretch in the coursewise direction than inthe longitudinal direction. Coursewise stretch has many advantages, aprimary advantage being inherent narrowness and tightness in the ankleportion, which makes it less critical to increase the yarn tension orotherwise tighten up the knitting through the ankle. Stockings inaccordance with the invention exhibit superior fit, particularly at theankle, and unique feel.

It will thus be seen that there has been provided by this invention afabric and method in which the various objects hereinbefore set forth,together with many practical advantages, are successfully achieved. Asvarious possible embodiments may be made of the novel features of theabove invention, all without departing from the scope thereof, it is tobe understood that all matter hereinbefore set forth is to beinterpreted as illustrative, and not in a limiting sense.

We claim:

1. Tubular stretch fabric, each course of said fabric being knit of twoyarns of opposite torque, the respective yarns being drawn intoalternately spaced stitches, each of said yarns being floated across thestitches of the other.

2. Tubular stretch fabric, each course of said fabric being knit of twoyarns of opposite torque, the respective yarns being drawn into stitchesin alternation, each of said yarns being floated across the stitches ofthe other.

3. Knitted fabric highly stretchable in the coursewise direction, eachcourse of said fabric being knit of two yarns of opposite torque, therespective yarns being drawn into alternately spaced stitches, each ofsaid yarns being floated across the stitches of the other.

4. Knitted fabric highly stretchable in the coursewise direction, eachcourse of said fabric being knit of two yarns of opposite torque, therespective yarns being drawn into stitches in alternation, each of saidyarns being floated across the stitches of the other.

References (Iited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS1,819,958 Lochhead Aug. 18, 1931 4 Lawson June 5, 1934 Nebel Sept. 10,1935 Holt June 30, 1936 Leath et al. Aug. 9, 1955 Hill Aug. 9, 1955Burleson Mar. 6, 1956 Weller July 24, 1956 Burleson et a1 Nov. 27, 1956Weller Nov. 27, 1956 Leath et al Nov. 27, 1956 Burleson Nov. 27, 1956Knohl Apr. 29, 1958 Bird et a1. July 8, 1958 Sommers Nov. 4, 1958Attenborough Aug. 18, 1959 Wood et a1. Aug. 1, 1961 Mahler Mar. 6, 1962Bobo et a1 Feb. 19, 1963 FOREIGN PATENTS Great Britain Aug. 24, 1928UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION Patent N0 3 155104 June 2 1964 Aaron Burleson It is hereby certified that error appearsin the above numbered patent requiring correction and that the saidLetters Patent should read as corrected below.

Column I line 3,1 for "FIGURE 2" read FIGURE 3 line 38 for FIGURE 8"read FIGURE 2 Signed and sealed this 27th day of April 1965 (SEAL)Attest:

ERNEST W. SWIDER EDWARD J. BRENNER A-ttesting Officer Commissioner ofPatents

1. TUBULAR STRETCH FABRIC, EACH COURSE OF SAID FABRIC BEING KNIT OF TWOYARNS OF OPPOSITE TORQUE, THE RESPECTIVE YARNS BEING DRAWN INTOALTERNATELY SPACED STICHES, EACH OF SAID YARNS BEING FLOATED ACROSS THESTITCHES OF THE OTHER.
 4. KNITTED GABRIC HIGHLY STRETCHABLE I THECOURSEWISE DIRECTION, EACH COURSE OF SAID FABRIC BEING KNIT OF TWO YARNSOF OPPOSITE TORQUE, THE RESPECTIVE YARNS BEING DRAWN INTO STITHEDS INALTERNATION, EACH OF SAID YARNS BEING FLOATED ACROSS THE STITCHES OF THEOTHER.